The MR2 is finally back from the shop after two weeks!
The car had a lot wrong with it, and ended up costing a total of $2,150.21 to get fixed.
Interestingly, the mechanic seems to have either changed out or painted my oil covered valve cover on the engine, because now it’s a glossy black color instead of oil caked gray. I’m not complaining (he didn’t even bring it up once and didn’t charge me for it), but I wonder why he did. He also left a quality pry bar in the passenger seat that I’ll need return the next time I see them.
Now that it’s back, I’m sad to say that I actually have not yet had a chance to drive it.
The first order of business was to remove the shitty stereo with the one I ordered.
Of course, one of the previous owners thought it was a good idea to cut out the factory wiring harness. So now I actually have to pull apart the dash cluster to get in there and fix it.
I’ll probably solder a reverse wiring harness back onto the factory wires in the future, but for now I’ll just use the existing crimps that the previous owner made to connect to my head unit’s wiring harness. It’s ghetto, but it’ll have to do for now.
While I was taking everything out I started to get tangled up in the wiring for the alarm system / keyless entry system. So I started taking that bullshit out too.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen so much electric tape and zip ties in my life. More than half the work was just getting the damn tape off of the wires.
The alarm was one of those shitty $70 Python alarms. It had the model “R460” on the brains of the unit, but I couldn’t find it on their official website, so maybe it’s a cheap knockoff of a knockoff.
I got the siren and most of the peripherals disconnected, but there’s a set of wires (green, yellow, orange, and red) that are leading up into the back of the instrument panel that I couldn’t get to. I’ll need to take apart the whole dash to get to it without damaging anything.
Doing my research, it looks like those wires are for:
- Orange: To Starter Kill Relay
- Green: To (-) Door Switch Wire
- Yellow: Key Switch
- Red: Constant Power Input (battery)
So I’m guessing that the kill switch relay is all I have to defeat next. Once that’s done I can reconnect the battery and start driving her. That’s my plan for tonight anyways.
Yesterday night I started at 11 PM when I got home, and had to get to bed at 3 AM for work today.
While I’m stuck here at work I ordered some 194 sized LEDs to replace the dying incandescent ones in the cluster currently. Here’s a link to the ones I ordered:
The instrument panel uses the following lights:
- 1x Blue # 168/194 (high beam)
- 2x Green # 168/194 (turn signals)
- 3x White #168/194 (speedometer, tachometer, and other gauges)
- 4x Red #74 (cooling fan, charging, brake, and seat belt)
- 1x Amber #74 (check engine)
- 0x Red #168 / 194 (low gas) — NOTE: DO NOT REPLACE OR IT STAYS ON ALL THE TIME!
I’m hoping I’ll have some money in the near future to order the other LEDs for the rest of the instrument panel, and while I’m in there I’ll redo all the speaker wiring.